Below Are Articles For

Potty Training


Introducing Your Puppy to Its New

Home and Other Family Members

Providing A
Safe Doberman Puppy Den


Your puppy learns about his new world by “taste testing.” But by doing so, he or she will introduce new bacteria into their stomach and intestinal track... bacteria they are not accustom too.

This is similar to you or I drinking the water in Mexico or Italy. When your puppy licks or eats something new, severe diarrhea and stomach aches can occur.


If your puppy does start to develop diarrhea from the normal change in environment, food and water - please start the procedure listed below immediately and the problem will correct itself right away


Give The Puppy:


Two (2) tablespoons of Kaeopectate & Two (2) tablespoons of Pepto-Bismol


*** ONCE EVERY THREE (3) HOURS until stool firms.


You MUST give both Kaeopectate and Pepto-Bismol at the same time (no substitutes.) And you MUST give the two (2) TABLESPOONS (not teaspoons) of each. Pour each tablespoon directly into the pup’s mouth, not in the food! Also, feed the puppy 70% boiled rice and 30% boiled Hamburger or chicken for both morning and evening meals. The problem of diarrhea will correct itself within 24 to 48 hours.


Training Recommendations

The next ten days are the most important time for training your puppy. In this time the puppy will earn most of the rules of your pack (household). Whatever you allow the puppy do now, the puppy will think it is ok to do it when it is 100+ pounds. Do not let him start a bad habit!


The First 10 Days

Introducing Your New Puppy To Your Household

Simply Broken Down

The first few days after your puppy is brought into your home is the critical time to get off to the right start. This is even more important when there are other dogs or children in the house. These few simple tips are meant to help get you off on the right foot and save the family tears from having to return the pup.

The most common reason we are given for returning a pup after a day or two is “my old dog is usually friendly with other dogs but hates the puppy”. This is how we explain your old dog’s point of view.

We firmly recommend a crate for the pup to be in a majority of the time (to start) and anytime it is not in the crate, a 6 foot drag line tied on its buckle collar to keep it near you or out from under the furniture when it is hiding with a chewy shoe. Thirty days from now you can relax on these tools if you did your foundation work. The crate should always be the pup’s safe zone though.

Your husband/wife tells you that he loves you so much he has decided to bring home another woman/man to live in the house and keep you company. If she/he, being new, gets all the attention, is allowed to sleep in your room and you are ignored, you shortly will be plotting her/his demise, much like “old dog” has started hating the new pup. If, however, the new woman/man is kept locked in her/his room (crate), and you get everything before her/him, more than before, even new toys you will start to get used to the idea of her/him being there. You will eventually see it as a positive.

It is important to remember that the pup is an intruder in your home. If the pup is bothering the old dog then the pup gets scolded. Old dog gets a “Be Have” or “NO” on a growl but pup gets a taken away and learns its place. Your old dog was good with others because that was mostly on neutral territory. Take old dog and pup to the park, on walks, etc. and have most of their interaction off old dog’s territory. Also remember dogs accept the opposite sex better than the same sex as it is even less threatening to their position. Two male dogs can learn to get along and then have problems when pup reaches maturity and decides to dethrone Old Dog so keep pup in its place. Keep the new dog in its proper pack order.

If there are kids in the household then it is even more vital that you use the crate. My children know that when the dogs go to their crate that means that the pup has had enough interaction and leave it alone for a while. The dog knows this is its safety zone and will walk away from the kids rather than backing them off with a growl. The kids know this is the dog’s space to eat, chew on a bone or just relax, just like when they go to their room to avoid their brother or sister. The dog should also know that it also does not go into the pack leader’s room or the kid’s rooms. Having your own space is important.

Also important is kids do not correct the puppy as kid’s often take this too far and try mimicking their parents training the dog. Kids won’t accept this from each other and neither will the puppy accept it from the kids. These few simple rules will help start everyone out right.

Feeding Your New Puppy

For the first few days we recommend feeding our puppy the same mixture of 70% boiled white rice and 30% boneless chicken breast (which is cooked here at the kennel daily for our dogs). The rice and chicken is then mixed in with whatever good puppy dry food you will be feeding. We recommend a mixture of 60% dry and slightly moistened with the rice and chicken mixture and a cooked egg and a tablespoon of cottage cheese. If after the puppy adjusts to your dry food and water you find it easier you may gradually reduce the rice and chicken and add in an equal amount of canned dog food like pedigree. We recommend the god gets 40% meat eggs and cottage cheese for its lifetime. It also gets 2 meals all it can eat until it is done growing at 18 months. Remember if you limit the food you will limit your pup’s growth. If you want a big calm laid back house pet couch potatoes are well fed!



                                                            Introducing Your Puppy to Its New Home and Other Family Members

You must not forget however that for your new puppy leaving the litter and its mom is a frightening experience and it is very likely that this will also be the first experience your puppy has of traveling in a car so you need to make sure that you do not cause any more stress than the puppy already feels. This is why introducing the puppy to its new home and any new animal companion’s needs to be done in a sensitive and careful way.

Preparing the home

You will need to make sure your home is puppy proof. Puppy proofing your home is very much like baby proofing it. Tidy away things that might present a hazard to your puppy and don't leave things lying about that the puppy might be able to destroy or ingest. Try and have a look round from your new puppy's level and try to look around and see if there are any hazards that you can remove or make safe. Remember to do this inside the home and out. Puppies will wander around and can get stuck behind wood piles, sheds or shrubs. If you have a pond you will need to secure it behind a temporary fence so that your puppy can't fall in. Once you have puppy proofed you home, you can start thinking about making her sleeping quarters comfortable and a pleasant place to be for your puppy.

Picking Up Puppy

How to prepare for the car ride home.

  • Make sure that you are properly prepared for the trip home. Take a crate lined with newspapers or towels with you for puppy to travel in.
  • Make sure to bring a collar and leash.
  • Drive carefully and steadily, avoid any sudden movements of the car and make sure you break, corner and accelerate gently so that the puppy doesn't get jostled around in the car.
  • I find it helps for one adult to sit with the puppy on the back seat and gently hold it on your lap or settle it in the box next to you.

Introducing your puppy to her new home.

We firmly recommend a crate for the pup to be in a majority of the time to start and anytime it is not in the crate a six-foot drag line tied to its collar to keep the pup near you or out from under furniture.
The crate should always be the pup’s safe zone. It is best to introduce your puppy to a few rooms at a time. Starting with one room at a time. This will also help with housebreaking. And then to let her explore once she is settled a little better.

When you arrive home walk the puppy first and make sure they go to the potty. Then take the puppy inside the house and introduce her to the rooms she will be allowed to go in.

The most common reason we're given for returning a puppy after a couple of days is "my old dog is usually friendly with other dogs but hates the puppy". This is how we explain your old dogs point of view.

Your husband tells you that he loves you so much that he has decided to bring home another woman to live in the house and keep you company. If she, being the new woman, gets all the attention and was allowed to sleep in your room and you are ignored you shortly will be plotting her demise much like "old dog" has started hating the new puppy. If however the
new woman is kept locked in a room (crate) and you get everything before her, more than before, even new toys, you will start to get used to the idea of her being there and see it in a positive manor.

It's important to remember that the puppy is an intruder in your home. If the puppy is bothering the old dog then the pup gets scolded. Then the old dog gets a “behave” or “no” on a growl. And the pup gets taken away and learned its place. Old dog was good with others because that was in neutral territory, like a park. Take both of them to the park and on walk, etc. and have most of their interaction off old dog’s territory. Also remember dogs accept the opposite sex better than the same-sex. Two dogs of the same-sex can learn to get along and then have problems when pup reaches maturity and decides to dethrone old dog so keep pup in its place.

If there are kids in the household then it’s even more vital that you use the crate. Teach the children that when the pup goes into its crate that means the pup has had enough and leave it alone. The dog knows that the crate is its safety zone and will walk away from the kids. Teach the kids that this is the dog’s space to eat, chew on a bone or just relax. The dog, in return, should learn not go into the pack leaders room or the kids rooms. Having your own space is important. Much more importantly do not let children correct the puppy as kids often take this too far. They try mimicking their parents when training the dog. Kids won’t accept this from each other and neither will the puppy. These few simple rules will help start everyone out right.


Introducing puppy to your other dog(s)

Take introductions slowly, introduce your new puppy to one dog at a time, especially if you have more than one other dog. Let them sniff and inspect each other but don't force them to interact if they are a bit stand offish. When introducing a new puppy to an existing adult dog it may help to let them meet outside first before bringing them all into the house. You can also try taking your dog along when picking up the puppy as to introduce them in a neutral zone. Do not leave them alone together until you are positive that your existing dog(s) have accepted the new puppy fully. You can also use child gates, indoor crates or puppy pens to keep them separated until your new addition has been accepted.

A new puppy is an exciting addition to your family but remember your other pets too and give them plenty of attention so they don't feel pushed out. Make sure you feed, play, love the present dog(s) first, every time, then the new puppy second. This will help the present dog(s) from getting jealous.

Introducing your new puppy to a residential cat

Introducing a new puppy to a family cat is a little harder than introducing her to your canine companions. Cats are very territorial so it is important to confine your puppy to just one room until your cat has started to accept her. Baby gates and indoor crates are very useful here as they allow the cat and puppy to see each other without direct confrontations. Once the two of them seem to be accepting each other you can slowly allow your puppy to explore more of the house, but make sure your puppy can't chase your cat and try to avoid conflict between them. Initially have your puppy on a light house line and praise her for ignoring the cat if and when she enters the room you are with the puppy. This will teach your puppy that the cat is not a toy and that chasing is not allowed. It is likely that your cat will sulk and hide for a few days when you bring your puppy home. If your cat decides to hide in a particular room, keep this room as a safe place for your cat and don't allow your puppy to explore this room. If puppy heads towards the room the cat is hiding in redirect her away from the room so that the cat retains her safe area.

It may take a few weeks before your cat will accept your new puppy, just make sure you take the introductions slowly and keep them low key, progress slowly and give each of them plenty of time to get used to each other. With a bit of luck they should become best friends.

Settling puppy for her first night

Remember that your puppy is still very much a baby and she will need to go out before she goes to bed and first thing in the morning. As her bladder grows and she becomes better at holding on she will learn to wait.

Potty Training


Three Biggest Mistakes Made
 When House Training A Puppy.
1. Not using a crate
2. Allowing free roaming
3. Inconsistent Potty & feeding schedule

ndgo 356.jpg The four most important things to guarantee success for you and your pup are: SUPERVISION, ROUTINE, LIMITED FREEDOM, and PRAISE (NOT PUNISHMENT). You have to remember that your puppy is still a baby after all and as with all babies, potty training takes time. When your puppy arrives at your house, he doesn’t understand the difference between what we think is good and bad behavior. As far as your puppy is concerned, the carpet is the same as the grass outside other than the fact that it is warmer, cleaner and more comfortable. This is where supervision and routine come into play.

The first thing to remember about housebreaking is a puppy is triggered into going to the bathroom by its sense of smell. This means anywhere the puppy smells urine or feces it will be likely to urinate and/or defecate.

If you have ever smelled an old baby diaper, you know it smells like ammonia. This is because urine breaks down into ammonia. So, anywhere in the house you clean with an ammonia product, whether it be Pine-Sol, Lysol, Windex on your windows or Joy dishwashing liquid, the pup is likely to walk into the room upon smelling ammonia cleaner and decide that the room is the bathroom and this is where I should go.

If you don't want your pup to be triggered into urinating and/or defecating in the house you must clean with a non-ammonia line of cleaner, such as Murphy's oil soap or Ivory dish liquid. Any place the puppy has an accident, simply wash it with the non-ammonia line of cleaner and then neutralize it with a solution of 50% white vinegar and 50% water.

The second part of housebreaking is the proper use of a crate. A crate will protect the house from the puppy and the puppy from the house. When a puppy is safe in its crate you will not come home and find that your pup has chewed through an electrical cord or even a poisonous houseplant. The crate is useful when you are not able to supervise the pup but should not be a punishment for the pup. The crate should be the pup’s safe space. Your children and other pets should be taught to respect the pup’s private space just as the pup should be taught to respect theirs. If the pup gets up and walks into its crate to get away then it's tired and obviously feels he needs to rest. Teaching the family members to respect each other will help with overall harmony as well as housebreaking.

Using a Crate for Potty Training

pic 1761.jpg A puppy instinctually wants to keep its den clean and would prefer to potty away from where it sleeps and eats. This is why a crate is such a valuable training tool for housebreaking your puppy. When using the crate for housebreaking it's a good idea to block the puppy into small front section. If the crate is too large the puppy will make one end the bedroom and one end the bathroom. If you fill the crate with too much bedding the pup will go to the bathroom cover it up and sleep on top just like it's in the pen with its littermates. The pup will try very hard not to soil its bed if it only has a small area and a little bedding to start. Start with one small towel or some flat paper in the crate. Also make sure the pup always is put in the crate after it was just outside. After 30 days without accidents you can add a plush bed from the local pet store, but that is down the road for now……

The third part of housebreaking is creating a schedule the pup should be on to help with regulating its bowels.
An eight week old puppy is going to have to urinate every 1 to 2 hours so you are going to have to be diligent. As the puppy gets older you can start stretching this schedule out to 2 to 3 hours, 4 hours and then to 8 hours or more. A puppy that is less than 12 weeks old may not be able to go through a full night without a break but most puppies by the age of 3 or 4 months can sleep for eight hours without needing a potty break. Puppies will generally have 3 to 4 bowel movements per day depending on their feeding schedule. In order to control the puppy's schedule it is best to feed the puppy 2 or 3 times a day at fixed times. Scheduling is the key to good housebreaking. Puppies need to go out immediately after they eat, drink, when they wakes up from their nap. The pup should go out immediately and two hours later. This means if you are leaving the house at 9 AM the pup should be out, in, fed and back out by 7 AM so that it can go back out one last time right before you leave the house at 9 AM. Putting the pup outside for two hours is not the same as having to go in and out. Left to its own devices the pup may chew or worse ingest something that will not pass through its digestive system. Consideration of the pup’s bodily needs will make housebreaking comfortable and positive for the puppy.

The first 30 days the pup should never be scolded or corrected. The puppy made the mistake-it was your fault! If you catch the pup going to squat, scoop it up and take it out. Praise the pup when it goes in the proper place. Remember that positive attention is what you want to give but only give attention when the pup is doing what you want it to do. Reinforce all correct responses. If you catch him in the act, interrupt (not with yelling, a simple "oops!" generally works fine and is difficult to say in an angry tone), take him immediately to the designated potty spot and reward when he finishes outside. If you find an accident after the fact, just clean it up. Avoid rubbing your dog's nose in it, dragging him over to it or swatting him with a newspaper. If you missed the event, you've missed the training opportunity. Clean up with an enzymatic cleaner designed specifically for pet accident clean up. Every time your dog potties outside, have a party! Make sure you praise the puppy i.e. good puppy, good potty, etc.

Using a Leash for Potty Training

A puppy should always be on a leash and always in sight of its owner. The biggest mistake owners make is letting their puppy run around the house freely inviting accidents to happen when out of their sight. Prevention is the most important factor in successful housebreaking. When the puppy can't be supervised then it should be in its crate or exercise pen. Also, a puppy should not be left unattended outside in the yard. There are too many things the puppy can get in to.

Using an Exercise Pen for Potty Training

ndgo 548 2.jpg A Puppy Exercise Pen is a great way to contain your puppy while allowing him to exercise. Dog exercise pens for containing your pet indoors or out are available in a variety of heights and finishes. Exercise pens consist of interlocking panels allowing for easy adjustment of size and configuration and providing portability. It is possible to purchase two and put them together to make an even larger pen. If a puppy has to be left alone for more than 3 to 4 hours then the exercise pen is a better option than leaving the puppy in a closed crate. If the puppy is too young you do not want to leave the puppy in the crate for a longer period than they can hold their bladder. In the exercise pen you can put the puppy's crate or a bed, his toys and water if you need to leave for an extended period of time. Expect that you will have accidents in the exercise pen area so do not put the pen on carpet or flooring that is hard to clean. Do not scold the puppy for eliminating in this area.

Training a Puppy to Potty in a Specific Area Using a 10 foot Tether

If you have a designated area that you want your puppy to eliminate in you can use a 10' tether to keep your puppy in that area while he is supposed to do his business. Take your puppy out to the designated potty area on a leash then attach him to the 10' tether. Let the puppy sniff around and explore the area. It is helpful to scent the area with the puppy's urine or feces. You can bring out a soiled newspaper or one of his droppings to help him get the idea that this is where he should go. If you form this habit early you will have trained your puppy to go in a specific spot and he will more than likely continue to go in this spot when he matures even without the tether.

While at the potty area start giving your dog a command such as "Go Potty", "Do your Business", "Hurry Up", or whatever prompt/command you want to use. This will come in handy later when you need to get your dog to go on command. When the puppy is doing his business repeat the command and then give him a treat and lots of praise. You should give your puppy at least 15 minutes to complete his business. If the puppy does not go then return him to his crate with the door closed and come back in about 10 to 15 minutes. Then try again. Repeat this process until the puppy goes. Followed by some type of reward, food and lots of praise.

For the Apartment Dweller and No Backyarders

In these cases you might have to use Puppy Pads, newspapers or a litter box. Each one of these options have their draw backs because a dog who uses these for potty may never be fully housebroken. Dogs who have been trained on newspaper or pads never seem to grasp the idea that it is not okay to mess in the house or use the wrong paper as a potty target such as newspaper left on the couch or chair.

When will my puppy be trustworthy?

As a general rule when your puppy is a least 6 months of age and has had no accidents in the house for at least a month or two you can then give your puppy more freedom in the house.

Providing a Safe Doberman Puppy Den

The use of a crate (kennel) is an effective way to train a new Doberman Puppy. The kennel imitates a den. In nature, puppies stay in a small den, just big enough for everyone to fit. While the adult pack members are off on the hunt, the puppies stay behind, safe in the den usually with an adult puppy-sitter. Only when the pack returns will the puppies emerge to happily feed on regurgitated food.

Instinctively, a puppy will have a feeling of safety and will not want to mess inside his small kennel. To properly kennel a puppy, the kennel should have just enough room for the puppy to fit comfortably laying down, standing up, and he should be able to turn around. The kennel should be built specifically for dog safety with only small spaces between the bars. The kennel should also be of high quality and in good repair, without bent or broken bars, and with a flat cleanable floor.

Doberman puppies grow fast, so it’s often a good idea to purchase a crate made for a full grown Doberman, 42” x 30” x 31” or larger. Some crates are equipped with a divider to make the floor space inside the crate the right size for the puppy as it grows. With a regular crate, a box or other large item can be placed inside to take up the unneeded space, where the puppy would otherwise mess.

The puppy’s crate should never be used as a punishment. Inside there should always be plenty of interesting chew items, toys, and a comfortable bed or blanket. If the puppy is to be left in the crate for longer than a couple hours, a small bowl of water should be made available.

Using the crate for training is simple. Any time a person is not able to pay full attention to the puppy, the puppy should be safely secured in his crate. Upon removing the puppy from the crate, he should be immediately shuffled outside to the area you intend for potty breaks. On the way, the puppy owner should happily use a keyword command such as “Outside.”

Training the puppy to enter the crate on his own is important. A command should be taught such a “kennel up” or “in your house.” Simply give the command and throw into the crate a toy for the puppy to chase. The puppy will eventually associate the command with entering the crate and will usually enter happily just from its owner handling the kennel door.

If a Doberman puppy owner chooses to feed the puppy inside the crate, additional care should be taken. The crate should be sanitized often and no amount of food material should remain in the crate after the puppy eats. This food material will breed bacterial and result in hygiene issues such as puppy acne.

Crate training will teach the puppy that messing is only to be done outside and will keep the puppy out of trouble when no one is available to carefully watch him. As the puppy matures and no longer needs the crate, it’s often a good idea to keep the crate available for when the family is out of the house.

Even after the adult Doberman has proven his ability to stay out of trouble when home alone; keeping the crate available is still helpful. It will continue to be a safe place for the dog to go where he can rest and be away from the traffic of the home.

Maintaining kennel training will also make times easier when the Doberman is required to once again stay in a crate at the groomer’s, a boarding kennel, or at the veterinarian’s office. If the Doberman owner chooses to remove the crate from the home, a similar area should be established such as a dog bed where the Doberman can relax and feel safe and out of the traffic of the home.

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